Despite the bad weather January can be a great time to explore new places. There are few people and after all the hullabaloo of Christmas, finding places that not only allow you body and mind to relax but also allow your soul to regenerate. Hence, Fosdinovo is made for winter strolling. In January, the lanes are quiet. The air is sharp. The views can feel almost unreal. The Apuan Alps are behind you. The Magra valley is below. When the sky clears, you can see the sea out towards the Ligurian coast. The village is compact, so you can take your time, stop for a warm coffee, and still be back at your car well within two hours.
I did this little loop around Fosdinovo in January and it was exactly what I wanted: crisp air, quiet lanes, and those sudden gaps between buildings where the whole landscape opens up. It is the kind of village that feels made for wandering, especially in winter when you are not sharing the streets with anyone but a cat and the occasional local heading home with a bag of bread.
Here is the walk I took. It came in comfortably under two hours, and that includes plenty of stopping to look out at the views.
A quick January note before you go
Bring a warm layer and wear shoes with grip. The cobbles can be slick when the air is damp, and January light drops earlier than you think.
The 2-hour walk (easy pace, lots of pauses)
1) Start at Castello Malaspina (20 to 30 minutes)
I started at the castle because it gives you that instant “I’m in Lunigiana” feeling. Even if you do not go inside, the approach is worth it. I lingered here for the first big panorama, with the valley below and the mountains behind.
If you do want to visit the interior, check timings and whether tours are running that day. I was happy just circling the outside and soaking it in.
2) Meander down through the old streets (35 to 45 minutes)
From the castle, I let myself drift downhill through the medieval lanes towards the main little squares. This is the best part for slow travel. I took every tempting side street, peeked through archways, and kept steering towards whatever looked like it might lead to a view.
You do not need a strict route here. The village is compact, and the pleasure is in wandering.
3) A calm stop at Chiesa di San Remigio (10 to 15 minutes)
I made a short stop at the church, partly for the atmosphere and partly for the warmth. It is a good reset point in the middle of the walk, especially in January.
4) The viewpoint drift, then back uphill (25 to 35 minutes)
After that I took the outer edges of the village where the land falls away. This is where Fosdinovo really shows off. In winter, the light changes fast, and I loved how the scenery kept shifting between moody grey and suddenly bright.
I then slowly worked my way back uphill towards the castle area.
5) Finish where you started (10 minutes)
I ended back near the castle for one last look. It is a satisfying loop: fortress above, stone village wrapped around it, and that big open landscape in every direction.
Where I would eat afterwards
Locanda de Banchieri (make it a proper lunch)
If you want to turn this into a full winter day out, I would book Locanda de Banchieri. It is the “settle in and do this properly” choice, ideal after a brisk walk.
Trattoria Quinta Terra (cosy and straightforward)
For something more relaxed, Trattoria Quinta Terra is a great shout. This is what I would pick when I want simple, local comfort and an easy atmosphere.
La Burlanda (another easy option in town)
If you want another simple option in Fosdinovo, La Burlanda is also worth considering, especially if you want something unfussy after a short walk.
My favourite moment
It was not a monument, it was a view. I stopped at a little opening between two stone buildings, and for a minute the clouds lifted and everything went sharp: valley, ridge lines, and a hint of coast in the distance. Fosdinovo is full of those moments if you walk slowly enough to notice them.
Off The Beaten Track Italy 
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